Every Greek island has a unique personality. However,
Crete—more than any of the others— is inextricably linked to the history of
Greece. Here you’ll find the remains of
one of the world’s earliest civilizations.
Giant bull horns standing taller than a man guard the south
side of the ancient palace at Knossos, near Heraklion, the island’s capital
city. The horns, representing power and
nobility, are appropriate symbols for this great kingdom of the ancient world,
dating back to around 2000 B.C.E. Named for
the legendary King Minos and his Labyrinth by archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans,
who discovered the site in 1900, the “Minoan” palace covers six hill-side
acres. There are multi-story buildings, storage facilities, a theater and an
open courtyard. At one time, more than 5000 people lived here, with 15000
residing beyond its walls. This sophisticated society boasted indoor plumbing,
an advanced central administration, and a peaceful trading economy that reached
as far away as Egypt and Turkey.
As you approach the
stairs to the palace on what may be the first-ever paved roads, you see the
remains of once-grand structures, still sporting their fresco murals and
uniquely Minoan columns that taper downward. The Queen’s room, decorated with
reproduction dolphin frescoes, features windows, built-in benches, and an
adjoining bathroom complete with clay bathtub and dressing table.
While it is wonderful to walk among the ruins of the palace
and to imagine this flourishing early civilization, you must also visit the Archaeological
Museum in Heraklion to view many of the Minoan artifacts that have been
preserved there. You’ll find the famed (if misnamed) Toreador Fresco,
which shows the ceremonial act of Bull Jumping (not fighting) and the small but
impressive Faience-glass, glazed pottery statue of the Snake Goddess with her
traditional costume: a bare bodice and long skirt.
In addition to the museum, an active harbor,
shop-and-gallery-filled center, and friendly residents welcome visitors to the
island capital.
As elsewhere in Greece, history influences much of the
character of the city. In some of the shops, you’ll see jewelry featuring the
squared-Greek key or the S-shaped spirals found painted on the ancient palace
walls of Knossos. In one gallery, I met artist Vassilis Politakis. With a
beaming smile, he says he studied pharmacy just long enough to learn some
chemistry, which he now applies to his pottery making. "The process is
quite time consuming,” he says, requiring him to be “on the kiln all the time
to guide the entire process.” Politakis,
whose pottery is on permanent display at the University of Richmond's
Department of Classical Studies (Virginia, USA), creates much more than the
copies of museum pieces that can be found throughout Crete and all of Greece. Rather, his work reflects the feeling and
philosophy of ancient Minoan culture, without imitating it exactly. His gallery, located just beyond the harbor,
which he runs with his wife Calliope, offers a wide variety of
traditional-styled vessels, such as a three-handled amphora, with newly
interpreted decorations.
The palace of Knossos may be in ruin, but
the civilization it spawned continues to flourish. Crete is the destination for
ancient history and modern hospitality.
